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WESTSAIL
32 "SHACKLES" SAILING INTO
THE PACIFIC
TOWARDS CHRISTMAS ISLAND
First published in "S.A. Sailing"
"SHACKLES"
Westsail 32
Shortly
after I negotiated the purchase of my Westsail 32, Alan from Seaforth
Yachts,
and I, motor sailed the yacht from Shelter Island, to the peace and tranquility
of Seaforth Marina in Mission Bay. There I could, at my own time and
pace, prepare the vessel for the long sea journey back to South Africa.
I had deliberately flown from Johannesburg via London to San Diego with
the sole idea of buying a cruising yacht - either a Westsail 32 or something
similar. I had previously seen a few "Westsails" in Durban, passing
through South Africa on circumnavigations. All the reports from the
owners were very good ... "a fine seaworthy boat, slow but ...". I realised
that San Diego, or at least the West Coast was the best place to source
my ideal boat.
Before I even approached any broker, I did my homework. From a motel
room in Point Loma, just up the road from the San Diego yachting centre
I looked at all the advertisements, and got an idea of price, verses
equipment, and what I could afford. Now it was a question of "looking
at boats", most of which were advertised through, and to be frank, I
would prefer the safeguard of buying through, a broker.
One of my first weekends in America , I caught the bus to Mission Bay,
and just happened to be walking along the quayside, looking at the moored
yachts in the marina, when a very friendly guy, Jessie Morphew, made
my acquaintance. I didn't even realise that he was a boat broker - we
just chatted about boats. I trusted him, and once he had introduced
himself as the broker of Seaforth Yacht Sales, I asked him to show me
some of his listings.
I actually made an offer on one of his craft but it fell through - just
as well I felt, as I know now that the boat wouldn't have been quite
right for me. As a single-hander, there was too much woodwork requiring
maintenance and too many electronic goodies.
I explained to Jessie what I was looking for and the next boat he showed
me (which was listed with another broker) was perfect! After a short
time aboard, I made an offer, which was subsequently upped and accepted.
The owner was in Mexico, but in the meantime I managed to have the boat
hauled and antifouled and two skin fittings on the hull replaced. All
this before I had a title deed in my hand - but it all went well. The
owner came up from Mexico and I was very glad of the opportunity to
meet with him.
In Mission Bay, much to the disgust of some fellow yachtsmen and dockside
neighbours, I committed the most severe of sins. I felt that one by
itself would be bad luck, but I did all three - I re-named the yacht
from "Windy Day" to "Shackles"; I changed the nationality from American
to South African; and I hoisted the brave new South African multi-coloured
flag. Lastly I changed the colour of the trim, from green to dark blue.
Time was marching on and I was already late for the South Pacific cruising
season and I was about to overstay my American visa. When I arrived
from England, I was on a system called "Visa Waiver", which gives a
stay in the States of three months, then one has to leave! My three
months were up and still "Shackles" wasn't quite ready.
After working out all my options and going to see the immigration department,
in downtown San Diego, I elected to try and return from Mexico. I got
a lift to the border and walked across, turned left, and walked back
to the US Border Control. Thankfully, and without any problems, I was
given another three months!
The few important things I fitted to 'Shackles' to make life more comfortable,
and to be able to sleep a little easier - were a clever device called
a Radar Detector, which picks up the pulses of a radar that is on in
the vicinity and makes a loud beep when it picks up a signal. All very
good, if the ship that is approaching has its radar on. In retrospect
it worked well 50% of the time and I can only assume that the other
50% the ships didn't have their radars switched on.
A second-hand liferaft that had recently been serviced was also, to
me, an important item. As were a dinghy and outboard motor, and many
other "nice goodies" that one can only buy in America! I had a lot of
fun going to a number of boat swap meets, mainly with Alan, who is also
an owner of a Westsail 32. At these amazing meets, I picked up most
of my remaining "wish list" - storm jib, 45'b CQR Anchor, rope shackles,
chain etc. Also a lot of "trade goods" that would hopefully see me in
funds at some of the remote locations en route. I also acquired a number
of new VHF radios, EPIRB's and other odds and ends from the firms' discontinued
lines. I am quite a trader, realising that if I didn't sell these items
on the way, I would have a ready market in South Africa.
The next big city I planned to see would be Durban - two big oceans away.
My rough route was to be to Hawaii (possibly), Christmas Island and
some other islands in this group, Canton, Funafuti (Tuvalu), the Solomons,
Gove (Australia), the Indian Ocean, and with a few, as yet, undecided
stops, on to Durban, South Africa, about a year or so later.
Shackles was in pretty good shape when I bought her, and with a little
work, and a few improvements to suit my own needs, I was ready. Dozens
of trips to the supermarket completed my stocks of a year's basic supplies.
Food is cheap in America, compared with the Pacific and especially some
of the more remote places I was likely to visit.
The San Diego area at the beginning of winter isn't really the place
to do much sailing as light winds and often fog abound, so I elected
to do my "sea trials" en route.
There were a few last minute snags. I was grateful that these happened
on the dock and not at sea. Once, when starting my engine, an ISUZU
Pisces 27hp, smoke started billowing from my alternator. Fortunately
Jim, of Jims Marine was on board his boat a few slips up, and within
a few days I had a re-built alternator. And just for good measure Jim
re-built my starter motor too!
The last thing I did ashore after a shower, was to say goodbye, and
thank you to Seaforth Yachts for all the help and advice they had given
me. I walked back to Shackles with Oliver, who helped me cast off my
lines, and I left. It was a foggy start on that 12th October day, as
I motored out of the entrance of Mission Bay and into the Pacific Ocean.
I sailed south, passing San Diego, and the USA border, and as I gained
more confidence in everything, I set course for Hawaii.
All went fine that first week, as I slowly got back into a "Yacht at
sea" routine. I had already done quite a bit of sailing previously -
and this was to be my third Pacific crossing! Beautiful tranquil days,
steady, but light breezes.
Magnificent sunrises and sunsets - spectacular moonrises and zillions
of crystal clear stars - a wonderful week! It was good to be out on
the ocean again.
Then I sailed right into the Pacific High - from a steady westerly wind
to nothing in a few moments, and I got caught in a "corner of the ocean"
from which there seemed no escape. Night followed a very exhausting
day of rolling from side to side with sails flapping and slatting, slowly
destroying themselves. I had already dropped the jib and staysail, now
I decided to drop the main too. It was a big mistake, as once I had
no sail up, the roll was so bad that the gunwhales were underwater.
Simultaneously, the yacht bucked from bow to stern so that on occasions
my windvane was underwater, and the engine exhaust threatened to flood
- it was very hard to handle. I tried to stop the rock with buckets
on each side, but to no avail. In great difficulty, and in the pitch
black of an overcast night, I managed to get the main back up again.
The following day dawned hazy and windless, as I lay becalmed on an
oily looking rolly ocean.
I spent the day and following night in utter dejection. I often caught
myself talking aloud, but when I started answering myself too, I started
to take stock. It must have been on the third night that I suddenly
awoke, after a very troubled sleep and was sure there was someone else
on board. l even talked to "them". However, the "visitor" seemed to
have a happy and positive spirit, and I went back to sleep, knowing
the yacht was in good hands!
Finally, after the fourth day there was the slightest hint of a ripple
on the sea, and a zephyr of wind from the north. I hoisted my big genoa,
and motored for a few hours to try and break out of the endless calm
- it worked!
The weather got pleasantly warmer, as I entered the tropical Pacific,
and the Trades steadied - I was now able to achieve 130-140 mile days.
I had eventually got my vintage Aries Windvane correctly tuned (it was
seized when I bought Shackles) - which was an absolute labour of love.
Fortunately I am very familiar with the Aries product, and the alignment
and adjustment of the control lines are of all importance. It had taken
me 1000 miles to get the right position for the turning blocks, and
the connection on the tiller. From there onwards the unit steered 95%
of the time in all winds, and all conditions - only requiring a bit
of oil from time to time!
One morning, halfway to Hawaii, I awoke to a bilge full of salt water.
I found a through-hull leak from the galley sink, and the leak was getting
worse, it wasn't just dripping, it was running with water. There appeared
to be a crack where the seacock screwed into the fitting. What a way
to start the day? I had bought some wonderful underwater epoxy, and
managed to build up the whole fitting and fix the problem. I felt better
now, knowing I wasn't sinking.
There were a few other small teething problems, all of which I overcame.
I decided too that I was carrying a lot of items which were unnecessary
to me. My long man-over-board pole, which rattled against the backstay,
would be the first thing to find a new home at my first stop. There
didn't seem much point in carrying it being alone? Another item to find
a new home, would be my 17ft staysail boom as the staysail worked better
without it! A lovely set of cockpit cushions and backs, surely would
make someone a nice gift? My bicycle too, took up the whole forepeak,
and was nice to have in the States, but I needed the space.
At 15º N, 142º W, I decided to head directly for Christmas
Island.
On the new course I would still pass within 750 Miles of Hawaii, but
things were going very well, and after 20 days at sea I felt very confident
with the vessel.
Slowly I got further south and sailed into the tropical convergence
zone, or Doldrums. The barometer dropped, and the wind backed from Northeast
to East, and the squalls started. Thunder, lightning, rain and wind
squalls in quick succession for three days. It was during this period,
that I wasn't quick enough to run with one of the more violent of the
squalls which gusted at force 8 for a short time, and blew my mainsail
out. The sail was an original Westsail main - 22 years old - so it was
not surprising the seams split. I repaired what I could but from there
I was destined to do the remaining 450 miles on a doubled reefed main.
I had with me a spare three-quarter main which I would use from Christmas
Island onwards.
I "felt" Christmas Island, before I saw it - I was about 60 miles North,
at midnight, when all of a sudden, the wave patterns changed, and there
was a slight "doubling back" of the wave movement.
At dawn - "Land Ho" the low lying Christmas Island - "the worlds largest
coral atoll" lay ahead of me. It was now just a question of sailing
around the NW point and into the bay, and finally through the pass into
the lagoon to anchor off the town of "London"'s wharf. I had the chart,
and also the book "Landfalls in Paradise", as well as the South Pacific
Pilot, so making this landfall was easy. All these publications had
clear information, and as we draw less than six-foot I was able to enter
the lagoon and proceed to the town.
In great spirits I motored between the breaking reefs, towards the village.
I was right on course, and could already see the town wharf, but how
to get there? Between me and the wharf there appeared to be a broken
pier and breaking waves. Just before I ran aground, I tried to radio
"Christmas Island Port Control" on Channel 16. Fortunately someone answered,
which surprised me, as up until this point I hadn't seen any sign of
habitation. After explaining my position to the mystery voice (I never
did find out who it was) - I was promised a fishing boat to guide me
in.
Sure enough before long a local powered fishing boat appeared, but suggested
I stay where I was, as it was almost low tide, and they would be back
in the morning at high tide, to guide me into the anchorage.
It was a bit of an unnerving night, with me bumping on the bottom occasionally,
but at first light the fishing boat re-appeared with customs and police
and harbour master. I cleared into Kiribati officially, and safely negotiated
a second channel between reefs much to the delight of all these new
found friends.
Finally, I dropped anchor in crystal clear water 50 meters off the beach
and just beyond the town wharf - Christmas Island, London Town. What
a delight. Numerous islanders in outrigger canoes greeted me, as did
a good many people on the town wharf. I was overwhelmed by the friendliness
as not many yachts anchor off the town. I was happy to be there, after
a sea voyage of 3300 miles taking 35 days.
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©Tony Herrick 2001/4 exists on ALL material on this website.
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